Pusuk Bih Monkey Forest: A Journey Through Lombok's Wild Mountain Road

On the road between Mataram and the north coast of Lombok, the landscape transforms dramatically as the coastal lowlands give way to a mountain pass known as Pusuk Bih. Here, the road winds through ancient rainforest that forms a dense, cathedral-like canopy overhead, and hundreds of long-tailed macaques (Macaca fascicularis) have made this forest their home. Stopping at Pusuk Bih to watch and feed the monkeys is one of Lombok's most accessible, free, and genuinely entertaining experiences.

The Pusuk Bih Pass

Pusuk Bih rises to approximately 600 metres as the main road crosses the Lombok Range — the volcanic ridge running north-south through the island. The pass is the main route between Mataram (on the west coast) and the Pemenang/Bangsal area (the jumping-off point for the Gili Islands) on the north coast. Almost every visitor to the Gili Islands or North Lombok passes through Pusuk Bih, but many don't realise what they're driving through.

The forest at Pusuk Bih is genuine tropical rainforest — not a park or reserve, but working forest that clothes the steep volcanic hillsides. Enormous trees create a canopy over the road, with lianas, epiphytes, and dense undergrowth on both sides. The air temperature drops noticeably as you ascend, and on misty mornings the forest has an almost primordial atmosphere.

The Monkeys

The long-tailed macaques of Pusuk Bih have habituated to human visitors over decades of roadside encounters. Troops of 20-60 individuals regularly occupy the roadside and median strip, engaging in complex social behaviour — grooming, playing, squabbling, nursing infants — all completely visible from the road or designated stopping areas.

The monkeys are accustomed to food offerings from passing vehicles and locals. Bananas and sweet potatoes are the preferred treats, available to buy from small roadside vendors. Watching a troop respond to a bag of bananas being opened — with suddenly materialising monkeys appearing from every tree — is both hilarious and impressive.

Important: Be aware that habituated monkeys can be opportunistic. Keep windows partially closed and bag straps secure. Don't try to hold onto food that a monkey has decided is theirs — let go rather than risk a scratch or bite. The monkeys are not dangerous with appropriate caution.

Viewpoints Along the Pass

Several informal stopping points along the Pusuk Bih road offer views back toward Mataram and the west coast. On clear days, the views are extensive. The highest point of the pass has a small parking area where the forest is densest and monkey activity most concentrated.

How to Visit Pusuk Bih

Self-drive: Pusuk Bih is on the main road and freely accessible at any time. Simply drive the mountain road slowly (as you should for safety) and stop at designated areas when monkey troops are visible.

As part of a tour: The Pusuk Bih pass is routinely included in North Lombok day tours and is a standard stop on the way to Tiu Kelep Waterfall.

Entry cost: Free. Parking at stopping areas is free. Only the bananas (if you buy them from roadside vendors) cost anything — typically 5,000-10,000 IDR per bunch.

Other Wildlife in Pusuk Bih

Beyond the famous macaques, the forest is home to various bird species, flying foxes (visible at dusk heading out to feed), civets, monitor lizards, and various reptiles and amphibians. Birdwatchers should travel the road in the early morning when forest bird activity is highest.

Practical Tips

• Best time: Morning or late afternoon when monkeys are most active at the roadside
• Traffic: The road can be congested on weekends with slow-moving trucks. Add extra travel time
• Safety: Drive slowly — monkeys cross the road unexpectedly
• Food for monkeys: Bananas are ideal. Avoid processed human food which is bad for their health