Besakih

Pura Besakih, on the south-western slopes of Mount Agung at around 1,000 m, is the largest and most important temple complex in Bali — the Pura Kahyangan Jagat, or Mother Temple.

It is not one building but a complex of 23 separate temples arranged up a series of terraces on the mountainside, with the central Pura Penataran Agung at its heart. Worship here predates Hinduism's arrival on Bali; the site has been in continuous religious use for well over a thousand years.

Its most famous moment came in 1963, when Mount Agung erupted during the Eka Dasa Rudra ceremony, held once a century. Lava flows came within metres of the complex and stopped. Balinese Hindus widely regard this as a sign, and it substantially reinforced the temple's standing.

Besakih has historically had a reputation for aggressive touts — unofficial "compulsory guides", inflated donations and pressure at the gate. A major redevelopment completed in recent years introduced a proper ticket office, parking area and shuttle, which has improved things considerably. Buy your ticket at the official counter, take the official guide included with it if you want one, and decline anyone who intercepts you in the car park.

Non-worshippers cannot enter the inner courtyards, but the terraces, gates and the setting against Agung are the experience. Sarong and sash required.

What is Besakih? Bali's largest and holiest Hindu site, a complex of 23 temples on the slopes of Mount Agung, known as the Mother Temple.

Can tourists enter Besakih? Yes, but non-worshippers cannot go inside the inner courtyards; the terraces, gateways and setting are open to visitors with a sarong and sash.

Are there scams at Besakih? It has a long-standing reputation for unofficial "compulsory guides" and inflated donations — recent redevelopment added an official ticket office and shuttle, so buy only there and decline approaches in the car park.

Why is Besakih significant? It has been a place of worship for over a thousand years, and during the 1963 eruption of Mount Agung lava flows stopped just short of the complex during a once-a-century ceremony.

How far is Besakih from Ubud? About 1.5 hours by road.