Denpasar

Denpasar is Bali's capital and by far its largest city, home to around a million people, and the overwhelming majority of visitors pass through it without noticing. It has no beach and no resorts — it is where Balinese people actually live and work.

That makes it interesting for a half-day if you want a break from the tourist coast. The Bali Museum, in the old colonial-era compound near Puputan Square, holds the island's best collection of Balinese art, textiles, masks and archaeology, laid out in pavilions built in traditional palace and temple styles. Next to it, Pura Jagatnatha is the city's principal temple.

Puputan Square itself commemorates one of the darkest days in Balinese history: in 1906, facing Dutch invasion, the raja of Badung and his court walked out in white ceremonial dress and were killed almost to the last person rather than surrender. The monument is understated and the story is worth knowing.

For markets, Pasar Badung is the largest traditional market on the island, four floors of produce, spices, ceremonial goods and flowers for offerings, busiest early in the morning. Across the river, Pasar Kumbasari sells textiles and crafts.

Denpasar is also where the best and cheapest local food is — babi guling, nasi campur and sate lilit at warungs with no English menu and no view. Ten minutes from Kuta, and worth one morning.

Is Denpasar worth visiting? For a half-day, yes — the Bali Museum, Pasar Badung market and genuinely good local food make it a worthwhile break from the resort coast.

What is Puputan Square? A square in central Denpasar commemorating the 1906 puputan, when the raja of Badung and his court walked out in ceremonial dress and were killed rather than surrender to Dutch forces.

Where is the best market in Bali? Pasar Badung in Denpasar is the island's largest traditional market, best visited early in the morning.

Does Denpasar have beaches? No — it is an inland working city; the nearest beaches are Sanur to the east and Kuta to the south-west.

How far is Denpasar from Kuta? About ten minutes by road, though traffic at peak times can double that.