Lempuyang

Pura Penataran Agung Lempuyang, on the slopes of Mount Lempuyang in east Bali, is one of the island's oldest and holiest temple complexes — and it is now visited overwhelmingly for one photograph.

The candi bentar, a split gateway at the entrance, frames Mount Agung perfectly when the volcano is clear. The image known worldwide as the "Gates of Heaven" shows this gateway with a mirror-smooth pool of water reflecting it. There is no pool. The reflection is produced by a piece of mirror or glass held under the camera lens by the temple photographer. This is not a secret and nobody pretends otherwise, but visitors regularly arrive expecting water and are disappointed.

The practical reality: you take a numbered ticket, and in peak season the wait for your turn at the gate can be two to four hours. The temple provides the photographer and the mirror; a donation is expected. Sarong and sash are required.

What gets overlooked is that this is a genuine and important sanctuary, one of Bali's sad kahyangan. Seven temples climb the mountainside above the famous gate, and reaching the highest involves around 1,700 steps through forest. Almost nobody goes up. If you make the drive out here, the climb is a far better experience than the queue.

Agung is usually clearest early; by mid-morning cloud often hides it entirely.

Is the Gates of Heaven reflection real? No — there is no pool. The temple photographer holds a piece of mirror or glass under the camera lens to create the reflection.

How long is the queue at Lempuyang? In peak season the numbered-ticket wait for the gate photo commonly runs two to four hours.

Is Lempuyang worth visiting? As a photo stop it is a long wait for one image; as a temple complex, with seven sanctuaries and around 1,700 steps up the mountain, it is genuinely rewarding and almost empty.

What should you wear at Lempuyang? A sarong and sash are required and can be rented at the entrance.

When can you see Mount Agung through the gates? Early morning gives the best chance — cloud typically covers the volcano from mid-morning onward.