Uluwatu

Uluwatu occupies the southern tip of the Bukit peninsula, the limestone plateau below Bali's airport, and it is a completely different landscape from the rest of the island — dry, scrubby, and edged by white cliffs falling 70 m into the Indian Ocean.

Pura Luhur Uluwatu, an 11th-century sea temple, sits right on the cliff edge and is one of Bali's six sad kahyangan, the island's spiritual pillars. The temple itself is small; the setting is the point. Paths run along the clifftop in both directions with the sort of views that justify the crowds.

At sunset, an open-air amphitheatre next to the temple stages the Kecak fire dance — a chorus of around 70 men chanting cak-cak-cak in interlocking rhythm with no instruments at all, performing the Ramayana as the sun goes down behind them. It is genuinely one of Bali's best hours. Tickets sell out in peak season, so buy early and arrive well before the 6pm start for a seat.

Be careful of the macaques at the temple. They are the most practised thieves in Bali and specifically target sunglasses and phones, having learned that people trade food for their return.

Below the cliffs, Uluwatu, Padang Padang, Bingin and Impossibles form the best concentration of reef surf in Indonesia — all advanced, all over shallow coral.

What is the Kecak dance at Uluwatu? A sunset performance of the Ramayana by a chorus of around 70 chanting men with no musical instruments, staged in a clifftop amphitheatre beside the temple.

What time is the Uluwatu Kecak dance? It normally starts at 6pm, timed to sunset; arrive around 45 minutes early because seats fill quickly and peak-season tickets sell out.

Do you need to cover up at Uluwatu Temple? Yes — a sarong and sash are required and are provided with the entrance ticket.

Are the monkeys at Uluwatu a problem? They are notorious for stealing sunglasses and phones and then trading them back for food, so put valuables away before entering.

Is Uluwatu good for beginner surfers? No — the breaks here are over shallow reef with strong currents and suit experienced surfers only.